Questions & answers

Everything you might wonder about QuitSub — how it works, whether your data is safe, and what to do when something looks off. Last updated August 6, 2026.
The 10-second version: QuitSub reads a bank/card statement you export yourself, entirely inside your browser, to find the recurring subscriptions draining you — then shows you how to cancel each one. Your statement is never uploaded and we never see it. Below are the questions people ask most; still stuck, email support@quitsub.com and a real person will help.
No answers matched that. Try a different word — or email support@quitsub.com and a real person will help.

🔒 Is my data safe?

Do you see my bank statement? ›

No. When you drop your statement (a CSV, PDF or screenshot) into QuitSub, it's read and analyzed right there in your browser, on your own device. It is never uploaded, transmitted, or stored on any server of ours — we have no server that holds your transactions, and we could not read your statement even if someone asked us to. Finding your subscriptions happens 100% on your machine.

Can I check for myself that nothing is uploaded? ›

Yes, and you don't have to trust us to do it. In the app, tap ✈️ Prove it: scan with your internet off. Turn on airplane mode (or turn off Wi‑Fi), then drop your statement in. It still scans, because everything runs inside the page on your device, and with no connection nothing can be sent anywhere. The result says it was scanned with your internet off. If you're scanning a PDF or screenshots, load that reader first while you're still online; the steps show you how.

The same screen lists every request the page has made, from your browser's own record: our anonymous step counter (like "scan finished", with no names or amounts), Google's visit statistics, and file downloads. None of them carry anything from your statement. For the full picture, open your browser's developer tools and watch the Network tab while you scan.

Do you connect to my bank or ask for my login? ›

Never. There is no "link your account" step, by design. You download your statement yourself (a CSV, a PDF, or screenshots of your bank app) and open it here. We don't ask for your bank username, password, or card number, and we don't touch your bank at all. That's the core difference between QuitSub and the apps that make you hand over your bank login.

Then what actually gets stored, and where? ›

Only small things, and they live on your device (in your browser's local storage), not on our servers:

  • Your decisions for each subscription (Quit / Keep / Cutback / notes)
  • A short scan history (dates, subscription names, and amounts)
  • Your most recent scan, so refreshing the page doesn't make you re-upload
  • Your theme and whether you've paid for a scan
  • If you've scanned a picture: the picture reader's English language file, kept so it doesn't download again (it's part of the reader, not your data)

You can wipe all of it any time with "Clear everything on this device." The only things that ever reach us are what you actively send: a payment, a support email, an opt-in email, or a "report a problem." None of those contain your bank data. Full detail is in our Privacy Policy.

If I give you my email, does that give you my bank data? ›

No — they're completely separate. Choosing to leave your email (for a yearly re-scan reminder) sends us only your email address — never your results, which stay on your device. We only ever email you the reminder; your statement is still read on your device and never uploaded. You can unsubscribe any time.

📄 Getting your statement

I don't have a CSV / I'm on my phone — can I still use it? ›

Yes. Many banks let you save your monthly PDF statements right in their app, and QuitSub reads those on your phone too. You can also screenshot the transaction list in your bank's app and drop the screenshots in (start each one at a date, and scroll back 3 or more months).

Or use 👆 "No CSV? Build your list by tapping" (in the app, and front-and-center on phones). Tap the subscriptions you have from a grid of popular services (or search all 479), confirm the prices — we pre-fill the going rate where we know it — and in about 30 seconds you have your real list: your actual monthly drain and sorting, no bank file involved and nothing uploaded. The cancel steps for each one come with a scan. One honest caveat: the tap-built list only contains what you remember. The full statement scan exists because people forget on average half their subscriptions — so when you're at a computer, run the real scan too and see what the tap list missed.

How do I get my statement file? ›

Log into your bank or credit-card website (a computer is easiest). Find Statements, Transactions, or Activity, then look for Download or Export and choose CSV (sometimes labelled "comma-separated" or "spreadsheet"). Grab the last 12 months if you can — that way yearly subscriptions show up too.

No CSV option? Download your monthly PDF statements instead; QuitSub reads those too. A PDF statement usually covers one month, so grab 3 or more (a year is best).

No download at all? Screenshots of the transaction list in your bank's app work, and so do clear photos of paper statements. Start each screenshot at a date heading, and lay paper flat in good light. Pictures are read less reliably than a CSV or PDF, so check the amounts before you cancel anything.

Do it for every card and account you use. Subscriptions love to hide on the card you check least.

Which banks does it work with? ›

Any bank or card that lets you export a CSV or download PDF statements, which is nearly all of them. Reading PDFs and pictures is newer: if one trips it up, the app tells you so, and a CSV from the same bank will work. QuitSub is built to read the common formats automatically, including Chase, Bank of America, Wells Fargo, American Express, Discover, Capital One, Citi, and exports from tools like Mint. It handles the quirks (positive vs negative amounts, separate debit/credit columns, extra header rows) for you. If your bank's format ever trips it up, email us the layout and we'll add it.

Can I upload more than one file at once? ›

Yes. Drop in several files (CSVs, PDFs, screenshots, or a mix) from different cards and different banks, and QuitSub merges them into one view so a subscription split across accounts still shows up once. Nothing is uploaded; each file is read on your device.

I just want to see what it does first. ›

Click "See it with sample data" on the app. It loads an example statement so you can play with the whole flow — sorting, Quit / Cutback / Keep, the tags and tooltips — without uploading anything. When you're ready, drop your own statement to do it for real.

🔎 Reading your results

What is "monthly drain"? ›

It's the total leaving your account each month from the subscriptions still in play — not counting anything you've marked Keep. As you Quit and Cut back, that number drops, so you can watch how much you're clawing back in real time.

There's a charge I don't recognize. What is it? ›

Two things help. First, QuitSub shows the category your bank filed it under (the 🏷️ pill on the row) — often enough to jog your memory. Second, some charges bill through a payment processor instead of the company's own name: a charge might read "Paddle," "FastSpring," or "DRI" when the real service is something else entirely. Where the fuller descriptor is available, QuitSub decodes it to the actual service (for example, a "Paddle" charge that's really Medal, or a "DRI\*Avanquest" that's really Avanquest). Apple is the exception no tool can fully solve: every iCloud, Apple Music, TV+, Arcade, and App Store subscription bills as an identical "Apple.com/Bill" with no product name on the statement — so a single line can hide several subscriptions. QuitSub labels it and flags it, and points you to Settings → your name → Subscriptions on your iPhone, which is the only place the real product names appear. Otherwise the bank category and the amount usually give a charge away — and you can always mark it "Not a subscription" if it isn't one.

The monthly amount looks too high or too low. ›

QuitSub works out how often something bills from the gaps between charges. If it guessed the billing period wrong (say it read a yearly charge as monthly), use the little "bills" dropdown on that row to set the right frequency and the number corrects instantly. It also caps the figure to what the merchant actually charged, so it won't overstate a sub that only appeared once or twice. Note that each row's headline number reflects how it really bills — a yearly plan reads "$179.99/yr" (with a small "≈$15/mo" beneath it), so an annual charge never hides among your monthly ones. The Monthly drain total at the top is a separate thing on purpose: a monthly-equivalent burn rate, where that $179.99/yr plan contributes ≈$15.

Why does one company show up as two (or more) rows? ›

Because a single vendor is billing you at more than one price — say a $44.90 charge and a $24.95 charge in the same period — so QuitSub splits it into separate rows you can decide on independently. Here's the important nuance: different amounts usually mean different products, not a duplicate of the same thing — a plan plus an add-on, or a membership plus a separate service. LegalShield is the textbook case: a legal membership and a separate "eService" associate subscription (the seller/website fee) hit the same statement and look like two accounts, but they're two different things billed on different days. Where your statement gives each charge its own wording, QuitSub names the rows by those exact words (e.g. "LegalShield · MEMBRSHIP" vs "LegalShield · ESERVICE") so you can tell them apart at a glance. Open your account with that vendor to confirm what each one is, then cancel anything you didn't mean to keep. (A genuine duplicate is the other case — the same price hitting several times, which gets its own "looks like more than one plan" heads-up.) You may also see an "other charges" row collecting leftover amounts that don't fit a clean recurring plan (usage, a one-time signup, or a mid-cycle proration).

Big platforms are the other reason you'll see several rows. Google, Microsoft and Apple bill dozens of different products under a single name — "Google" alone can be Google One, YouTube Premium, TextNow, Google Ads and more. QuitSub separates those into their own named rows so a real subscription never hides inside a generic "Google" or "Microsoft" line. And when the exact same price hits several times a month (say two Google One plans at $9.99 each), you'll get a heads-up: two identical prices look the same on a statement, so they can't be split apart automatically — check your account for duplicate plans.

Why does the monthly total ignore something I already cancelled? ›

Because QuitSub only counts what's currently billing you. Your monthly drain is meant to be the money leaving right now — so a charge that hasn't hit in a while (you already cancelled it, or a free trial lapsed) is greyed out, tagged 🚫 NOT CURRENTLY BILLING, and left out of the totals. It drops to a “Not currently billing” section at the bottom of your list so you can still see it — it simply doesn't count toward your drain. Same idea when a plan switches from monthly to annual: the old monthly stops as the yearly charge appears, so we grey the monthly (tag: ↪ SWITCHED TO ANNUAL) rather than count it as a separate live subscription. If something's genuinely still active on a longer cycle, set its frequency with the "bills" dropdown and it comes back as live.

If I upload statements that overlap, will it double-count? ›

No. When the same charge appears in more than one file you upload — same date, same amount, same merchant — QuitSub keeps it once. That means you can safely drop in every account and every statement, even when their date ranges overlap, without inflating your totals or splitting one real subscription into phantom extras.

Something in the list isn't a subscription. How do I remove it? ›

Hit "Not a subscription" on that item. It's removed from your list right away and flagged so it isn't counted. If you change your mind, you can restore it from Scan history. Reporting these also helps us stop flagging the same thing for everyone.

What do "Quit / Cutback / Keep / Maybe / Revisit" do? ›

Quit = you're cancelling it · Cutback = switch to a cheaper plan · Keep = it's worth it, leave it · Maybe = still on the fence (stays on your to-do — it keeps you from being "done" on purpose) · Revisit = you're not ready to decide, so punt it for a month. Revisit COUNTS as handled (so you can finish and hit a clean "done"), it is kept separate from your permanent "Keep," and it comes back for a fresh look next month with a review date. Your choices save automatically on your device. When you Cut back, type the new monthly price and the row's price updates to that number in green (with the old price shown beneath, e.g. "was $29.99/mo · saving $25/mo") — so you can see the change took. It still counts as kept, at the lower amount, and the difference lands in your Reclaimed total.

🏷️ What the tags mean

The little coloured tags on each row ›

They're there so you never have to guess. On the app you can hover (or tap on a phone) any tag to read what it means. Here's the full set:

🏷️ category The category your bank or card filed the charge under — their label, handy for identifying a cryptic name (banks do occasionally get it wrong).

CHECK CADENCE We only saw one charge, so we guessed how often it bills. Set the real frequency with the "bills" dropdown so the monthly figure is right.

YEARLY Billed about once a year. Cancel well before the renewal date or you're locked in for another full year.

VARIABLE Usage-based — the amount changes each time. Cancelling stops it; a spending cap only limits it.

BIG ONE-OFF One unusually large charge is mixed in with the normal ones — often an annual plan or a separate purchase. Cancelling the regular plan may not stop it, so check for both.

UNVERIFIED We spotted the pattern but it's not in our database yet, so double-check it's really a subscription and expect generic cancel steps rather than vendor-specific ones. Reporting it graduates it to verified.

HABIT Not a subscription — impulse or discretionary spend piling up. There's nothing to cancel; the fix is friction, like removing your saved card so it's harder to spend.

⚠️ OFTEN FORGOTTEN One of the usual suspects — the kinds of recurring charges people most commonly forget they're still paying for (gyms, antivirus, credit-monitoring, meal kits, VPNs, dating apps, and the like). It's not a warning that anything's wrong; it's a nudge to ask yourself whether you're actually using it.

🚫 NOT CURRENTLY BILLING No charge from this in a while — going by your statement, it looks like you already cancelled it (or a trial ended). It's set aside, greyed out, and not counted in your monthly drain. If it's actually still active on a longer cycle, set the right frequency with the "bills" dropdown.

↪ SWITCHED TO ANNUAL This account moved from a monthly plan to a yearly one — the monthly stopped right as the annual charge appeared. It's the same account, not a second subscription, so it's set aside and not double-counted.

⚠️ LIKELY N PLANS The exact same price is billing several times a month, which usually means you're paying for that many plans or accounts at once (people often rack up 2–3 Google One or iCloud plans). Identical prices can't be told apart on a statement, so we can't give them their own rows — the number is our estimate of how many you're paying for. Check that account and cancel the duplicates.

🌱 JUST STARTED A brand-new sign-up or trial — this vendor's first charge showed up only in the last few weeks. It's the best moment to decide whether you'll actually keep it, before it quietly becomes another auto-renew you forget about.

🔖 ONE-TIME / USAGE Several charges of different amounts landed within a few days and then stopped — the fingerprint of a one-time purchase or a credit/top-up spree (like trying out a new tool), not a recurring subscription. So we don't count it toward your monthly drain. If it really is a subscription, set how it bills with the "bills" dropdown.

① SEEN ONCE We've only seen this charge one time. A subscription is something that recurs, so a single charge isn't proof of one yet — it could be a one-time purchase, a free-trial's first bill, a brand-new sign-up, or something that already lapsed. We set it aside and don't count it in your drain until a second charge proves it's really recurring. This is deliberate: a subscription isn't a subscription if it isn't current and repeating. If you know it's a real recurring plan, set how it bills with the "bills" dropdown and we'll count it right away.

⚠️ heads-up Something worth a look — a hidden higher tier, a possible duplicate charge, a price hike, or a bank category that suggests it isn't a subscription at all. Click the row to read the detail.

NEW / PRICE UP Compared to your last scan: this wasn't there before, or its price went up. (These appear when you re-scan a fresh statement later.)

✨ Plans & cancelling

Does Concierge include a scan — and is it cheaper if I already bought one? ›

Yes to both. Every Concierge engagement includes a scan of your statements. And if you bought a scan on its own within the last 90 days, its $49 credits toward your Concierge total, so you never pay for it twice. Full detail in our Terms.

How do I get my scan unlock back on a new device, or after I clear my browser? ›

When you pay for a scan we show you a restore key (reachable any time by tapping the ✓ Scan unlocked badge up top). Save it. On a new device or after a wipe, open Scan my statements → Restore my scan, paste it back, and drop the same statements in again. Because QuitSub never has your account or your data, you keep the key — if you lose it, email support@quitsub.com from your purchase email and we can re-send it from your Stripe receipt.

What's free, and what does a scan cost? ›

Free: the full demo on sample data, our public cancel guides, building a list by tapping, and sorting it. You can also run a scan on your own statements for free and see how many recurring charges it finds and what they cost. A scan's full results cost $49, and if a scan finds less than $49 a year, it's free. That is where the work is — it cleans up garbled merchant names, works out each charge's real rhythm, catches the annual charge hiding twelve months back, and flags the ones that look wrong. Put plainly: tap what you remember for free; pay to find what you forgot — and the forgotten ones are the expensive ones. With the results you get every charge it found, the exact way out of each (the real link, the steps, the retention trap), and the downloadable report (PDF / CSV / HTML) with every cancel link. Each route carries the date it was last verified, so you can see how fresh it is rather than take our word for it. We do not promise ongoing maintenance or future updates — you get the tool as it is today. It's one payment per scan: no subscription, nothing that renews. Already paid for a scan? Open Scan my statements → Restore my scan and paste your restore key (or the link from your receipt email).

Your cancel guides are free on the site — so what am I paying for? ›

Fair question, and we'd rather answer it than have you wonder. Yes — our public cancel guides are free, complete, and always will be, because how to leave a service should never be a secret. What a scan buys is the part no single page can give you: finding the subscriptions you forgot you had, your whole statement organized into one fight — every route matched to your actual charges, sorted, tracked, with a live savings tally — and the downloadable report. One guide answers one question. A scan answers "what is ALL of this, and how do I kill it?" If you only needed one cancel today, use the free guide with our blessing — and if the scan later shows you twelve more, you'll know where to find us.

Is there a friend discount? ›

Yes. A paid scan comes with 3 one-time codes, each worth $10 off someone else's scan. Find them under 🎁 Give a friend $10 off after you unlock. Each code works once and expires 60 days after it's issued. Your friend opens your link, runs their scan, and the code is filled in for them at checkout.

You don't get anything for sharing, on purpose: nobody has a reason to spam it. The link carries only the code, nothing about you or your scan. Codes can't be exchanged for cash or combined with another code, and a scan bought with one is refunded at what was actually paid.

Can I buy a scan for someone else too? ›

Yes. The 2-scan pack is 2 scans for $75: unlock the statements you have loaded now, and use the second scan on a different set whenever you like, yours or a parent's or a partner's. The second scan never expires. You'll find the pack next to the unlock button after you run a scan. Open the other person's statements on your device, or restore your key on theirs, and press Unlock these with your pack's next scan. Their statements are read in the browser just like yours, so they never leave that device.

The 7-day refund covers the whole pack: within 7 days of buying it's refunded in full, whether you've used one scan or both. Friend codes don't apply to the pack.

How do I actually cancel a subscription? ›

Open the item and follow its cancel route — the direct link and the exact steps, including the "are you sure?" retention screens companies use to keep you. Mark it Cancelling while you're in progress and Done once it's confirmed, so you can track what's left. Cancellation always happens on the vendor's own site — QuitSub shows you the way, quickly. And if we don't have a service mapped yet, we never just say "go to their website" — you still get a clickable link that drops you on that vendor's cancel or login page, plus the universal step-by-step.

It says to cancel in the App Store or Google Play — why? ›

Because your statement told us so. When you sign up for something inside a phone app, Apple or Google does the billing — and those subscriptions can't be cancelled on the vendor's own website. That's the classic dead end: you go to the company's site, hunt for twenty minutes, and there's simply no cancel button there. If your charge shows a billing line like APPLE.COM/BILL or GOOGLE * (name), we say so plainly and send you straight to the right App Store or Play Store subscriptions screen instead. One catch worth repeating: deleting the app does not cancel the subscription — you have to cancel the subscription itself. And if we can't tell from your statement, we still drop a reminder to check the store, so you don't waste the afternoon.

How do I know which plan a charge is, or what it should cost? ›

For a lot of common services we keep a short list of their current plan prices, and when you open the item we show them and highlight the one that matches your charge — so a mystery "$24.99" can reveal itself as, say, a specific tier or an extra seat. These are list prices as of a recent date, and prices change, so we stamp the date and tell you to verify. For categories where the price is basically a moving target — antivirus and VPNs (cheap first year, then a big renewal), meal kits and boxes (you pay for what you got that week), home security (custom quotes) — we don't show a fake number. Instead we explain how the pricing really works so a surprise renewal doesn't catch you out.

Can you just cancel everything for me? ›

No — and that's on purpose. We never log into your accounts or click cancel for you; your logins and your data stay yours (that's the whole privacy promise). A scan shows you exactly how to cancel each one yourself, usually a couple of minutes each. Concierge is the done-with-you option: a real person gets on a live screen-share and walks you through your own list and the tough cancellations — coaching you through the "call to cancel" gauntlet (and staying on the line if you want), and taking on the hard cases like cancellation letters and bank disputes. You always drive; they make sure it actually gets done and sticks. Concierge is a one-time fee we quote from your own list before any work begins — roughly one month of what we cancel together — so it pays for itself fast (see our Terms for how it's priced).

Is QuitSub itself a subscription I'll have to cancel? ›

No. A scan is a single purchase: $49 per scan, with no auto-renew and nothing recurring, ever. A tool built to end subscriptions isn't about to sneak one on you. The scan itself runs free, so you see how many recurring charges it found and what they cost before you pay; you only pay to unlock a scan's full results, and not at all if it finds less than $49 a year. Full details are in our Terms and Refund policy.

⏱️ How long does this take?

How long would it take to cancel everything on my own? ›

More than most people expect. First you have to find everything — scrolling months of statements across every card, decoding cryptic charge names, remembering what each one even is. Then, for each subscription, you track down the right cancellation page and click through the "are you sure?" retention screens designed to slow you down. For a typical pile of 10–20 subscriptions that's easily a few hours, usually spread over several sittings — and most people give up partway and miss a few, which is exactly how the charges keep quietly coming.

How much faster is it with QuitSub? ›

The finding part is instant — one scan surfaces everything recurring across all your statements in seconds, cryptic names decoded and categorized. With your scan's results, each subscription comes with the exact cancellation link and the step-by-step (including the retention traps to skip), so a single cancel is usually a couple of minutes instead of a hunt. Realistically you can work through the whole list in one focused sitting rather than a project spread across a week — and because nothing's hidden, you don't miss the sneaky ones.

And the Concierge (done-with-you) option — how much of my time? ›

Concierge isn't about skipping the time — it's about not doing it alone, and actually finishing. Think one guided session (a live screen-share, usually 30–45 minutes): you still run your own scan and do the clicking — a real person can't touch your bank, that's the privacy rule — but they take out the guesswork (which statement to export, which cancel route, how to hold the line on the "here's 50% off" save-offers) and take on the hard cases (cancellation letters, bank disputes) so the ugly ones actually stop and stay stopped. Roughly the same sitting as doing it yourself with a scan, minus the fumbling and the giving-up halfway. It's a one-time fee, quoted from your own list before you pay — about one month of what we cancel together (see our Terms).

So what's the fastest path? ›

Free gets you the demo, the cancel guides and a list you build by tapping → a scan ($49) reads your own statements, finds the ones you had forgotten, and gives you the way out of each → Concierge is for when one of them is genuinely nasty and you would rather not face it alone: tell us what you are up against and a person replies with what it would take. Pick based on how much you want to do solo versus with someone beside you.

💾 Saving & devices

If I refresh the page, do I lose everything? ›

No. Your most recent scan and all your Quit/Keep/Cutback decisions are saved on your device, so a refresh restores them automatically — it even re-reads your saved statement with the latest detection so you get any improvements. You won't have to re-upload.

What if I switch computers, or clear my browser? ›

Because everything is stored on your device, clearing your browser history or moving to another machine would otherwise wipe it. The one thing that survives all of that is a backup file. Use Save my progress to download one, or Auto-save to a file (on Chrome/Edge) to have QuitSub write every change to a file you pick once. Load it on any device with Load progress and you're right where you left off — history and all.

Does it work on my phone? ›

Yes — it's the same app, laid out for a small screen. The one difference: since phones can't hover, you tap any tag to read what it means. Exporting the CSV from your bank is usually easier on a computer, but once you have the file the whole flow works on mobile.

How do I erase everything QuitSub saved? ›

Use "Clear everything on this device" in the app (under the data/settings options). It wipes your decisions, scan history, and cached scan from this device. It can't touch anything on a server because there's nothing about your statement there to begin with.

Can I download a report of my subscriptions? ›

Yes — the report comes with a scan's results (it includes every cancel link). After a scan, hit Save your report and pick a format: Print / Save as PDF (a clean printable page), a CSV spreadsheet, or an HTML file. It lists every subscription with its amount, how often it bills, your Quit/Keep/Cutback decision, and where to cancel it — handy for working through the cancellations or keeping a record. Like everything else, the report is built right in your browser from your own scan; nothing is uploaded, and we never email it to you (we couldn't — we never have your results).

Will you remind me to check again? ›

If you want. When you finish, tap Remind me to re-scan and leave your email, and we'll send a short reminder once a year to re-scan a fresh statement. Twelve months is long enough to catch the yearly charges and any price hikes that crept in. Apart from a one-time welcome when you sign up, the reminder is the only thing we email, and it contains none of your data: your statement is read on your device and never reaches us. Unsubscribe any time.

Rather not give an email? The same screen can put a reminder in your own calendar a year out (Google, Apple or Outlook). Nothing is sent to us.

🛠️ Troubleshooting

It says it couldn't read any rows / found nothing. ›

It reads a CSV export, a PDF statement downloaded from your bank, and screenshots or photos, but not an Excel .xlsx. Screenshots need their dates showing: start each one at a date heading. A PDF that is itself a scanned picture has no text in it; screenshot its pages instead. Password-protected PDFs can't be opened. A CSV needs at least a date and an amount column. If it's one of those and still won't read, your bank may use a layout we don't handle yet: tell us the bank's name (never send the file) and we'll add support for it.

A subscription is missing, or detected wrong. ›

Use "report a problem / send it in" on the item (or email us). We use these reports to add new services and fix cancellation routes — it's how the database keeps getting better. If something's being flagged that shouldn't be, the same report helps us stop flagging it for everyone.

I'm seeing an old version / my changes didn't appear. ›

Your browser may be showing a cached copy of the page. A hard refresh usually fixes it: Ctrl+Shift+R on Windows, Cmd+Shift+R on Mac.

Why don't interest charges or transfers show up? ›

On purpose. QuitSub filters out things that aren't subscriptions — interest and finance charges, transfers, and income — so your list stays focused on the recurring services you can actually cancel.

💬 What this looks like in practice

"I ran my own statements through it and reclaimed $7,771 a year — $647.63/mo — one charge at a time. That's the whole reason I built QuitSub."

— QuitSub's founder Real, documented

"An alarm contract I'd moved away from years ago was hiding as two separate bills so I could never fully cancel it. QuitSub surfaced it; I disputed five years of charges — $4,685, credited back in full."

— QuitSub's founder Real, documented

"A $200/mo charge that looked like a normal plan turned out to be a separate higher-tier account — cancelling the regular plan wouldn't have stopped it. The hidden-charge flag caught it."

— QuitSub's founder Real, documented

"I kept ~$933/mo of subscriptions on purpose — the things I actually use. QuitSub was never about cancelling everything; it's about not paying for what you forgot exists."

— QuitSub's founder Real, documented
Every result above is the founder's own, from his real bank statements. Real customer stories will join them as they come in.

Still stuck? Ask a real person.

If your question isn't here, we want to help — and fixing it usually helps the next person too.

Email support@quitsub.com